Ailyn passed out on the sofa last night. The boys cut their movie short, exhausted, and went to bed. It’s not surprising – a day of sun, waves, sea breeze and swimming is amazing – even life affirming – but completely exhausting. Everyone needed a good night’s sleep and Ethan who usually awakens earlier than most, slept latest – until 10:30.
Last night, the group wanted a day at Agriolivadi – which surprised me. Usually we have a day off from the beach every 3-4 days. Nonetheless, I was happy to support them, even if I felt like a day in town, and got lunches packed, water bottles filled, towels and supplies ready. Only as we were about to walk out the door did Sennen say he didn’t really feel like going to Agrio today, after which Ethan said he felt “kinda’ waterlogged” and Ailyn said she wouldn’t mind be lazy and taking it easy.
It made perfect sense. Yesterday was a LOT of sun and water after days of beachgoing.
So, we recalibrated to an easy Sunday afternoon with movies, some art (Sennen wants to paint) and bike riding. The gym is closed on Sundays. I supported the pivot, so long as we didn’t waste the sandwiches and fruit I had packed. And a deal was made.
Instead, once getting the crew setup with their food and activities, I came to a cafe by myself for the first time this trip to write and catchup with assorted life items. Having a Greek yogurt with honey, nuts and dry fruit – and a decaf freddo, sitting outside in a comfortable chair is perfection – just down the “road” from the kids so they can easily get me or I them.
On Patmos, the distinction between weekend and weekday is fairly thin and definitely blurred. Sunday, however, has the most definition because aside from the very peak of the tourist season in late July and August, many businesses close, people spend days with their family and friends – and of course a lot of people go to church after which they drink coffee together at one cafe or another. It’s the day local life most stands out against the tourist foreground. Not only is the Patmos Sunday routine relatable, but it’s part of the values that make this island so wonderful.
Sitting at Petrino in the town square on a Sunday is getting to view a slice of Patmos life – especially in the off-season when locals meet in the evenings to catch up with their friends. For me, it’s most interesting to see who sits with whom – which people I see as disparate are actually connected. Sometimes, it’s not who I would guess – and I learn something valuable about the fabric of Patmian life.
One Saturday evening in October, 2010 Emily didn’t feel like going out for the evening. We were on a 17-day stretch in Istanbul, about three months into our year-long honeymoon traveling the world. As we walked near our little, but comfortable hotel in Sultanahmet, Emily felt conflicted. We worked online during the week, so while we would see a place we were visiting, it wasn’t the same as a weekend. A Saturday night was primetime to really experience a city like Istanbul. She was tired after a day of enjoying the city and wanted a quiet evening – but she felt guilty for allowing an opportunity to slip by.
A year of travel is a marathon, not a race – so I pointed out if we were at home and she wanted an evening in, there would be no inner-turmoil. We had to recognize that we were still living a year of our lives, more as wanderers than tourists. Sometimes, you just need to watch a movie in bed and recharge – and that’s what we did.
Four-and-a-half weeks on Patmos is not necessarily a marathon, but it is not a sprint – and we are not tourists. There’s very little we haven’t seen and most likely done multiple times, if not many times. Even if it’s for a limited duration each year, Patmos is one of our homes. Sometimes, you stay home and watch a movie on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Some summer evenings are for bike riding and late outdoor dinners. While never missing a splendid day at the beach seems wise in one respect, the fact we are at home enough to treat Patmos like home also warms me.
At Sennen’s Bar Mitzvah, Rabbi Averbach discussed the week’s Torah portion and how, among other lessons it contained, one was not to walk the world as a tourist. It’s your world – you own it and have responsibility wherever you go. The rabbi very kindly pointed out Sennen and his sister are being raised not to be tourists, but to be a part of the places they go – particularly on summers in Greece.
That also warmed me.
Patmians go to the beach sometimes – but more frequently live their lives in town or whichever settlement/area they may be in. Recognizing the connections between our neighbors, the time they take off, the reasons behind it – these are important parts of becoming part of Patmos. Riding bikes in the afternoon like the local kids, shopping before the supermarket closes, or after certain stores open after the afternoon break are local activities, not tourist ones.
In truth, we’ll never be real locals. I could live here year-round for years and never be in the inner-circle of Patmos life. But I can be a part of the community. The more I respect it, the more I develop relationships within it, the more I have a place. Even if I do surf some of the tourist habits like renting lounge chairs at Agriolivadi and going on day excursion boats to nearby islands. Patmians appreciate the compliment of someone seeing the specialness of their island enough to want a home here and spending time regularly. There’s room for people like that.
Tonight, we’ll have dinner at Agora, formerly Alas Grill. Same owners, they rebranded, we reflexively reject the rebrand. While there are many restaurants on the island owned and operated by local families, something about Agora makes me feel the most like a local. Some of that may be that Agora is open year-round and a favorite for local take-out. Also, the owners have kids exactly my kids’ ages who speak English. The wife/mom, Ioanna has a Greek dad and British mom. She speaks English like she lives in Southern England – where, in fairness, she has spent plenty of time. Between the good food, the year-round nature of the restaurant and being able to relate to the family, Agora feels like a key part of our Patmos life.
Sadly, They discontinued making the best gyros. We’re still dealing with that – and given how Sennen talks about it, we may be for several more years. Locals remember these things.
