A cool wind blew while down below, people talked about the environment as we all sat in an amphitheater on top of the Cave of the Apocalypse. The Patmos Religious Music Festival goes on for ten days and we were there for the Environment Day concert.
Given that the venue sits atop the place where St. John The Divine locked himself away in a cave to write Revelations and described in detail a coming apocalypse, it seemed a little ironic to worry about the environment.
However, the Patriarchy of the Greek Orthodox Church felt differently. Its head, Bartholomew of Constantinople, sent an amazing message about the spiritual, social and political importance of the environment – including his hopes that the global financial crisis will spawn a shift in our priorities on consumption and environmental protection.
Of course, sitting from our vantage point in a wooded amphitheater at sunset, looking down the hill toward Skala and its gorgeous little bay – the little town wrapped around the water – it was easy to appreciate the Patriarchy’s message.
And then came three hours of live Greek music with some singer who must be somewhat famous – but who we didn’t know at all. Nonetheless, he belted out passionate folk-tune type songs that the crowd seemed to love. Many sang along.
Never before have I seen such extensive use of mandolin and accordion in an amphitheater concert. But there it was – sounding as stereotypical as it was real.
Better than the music itself was the feel and energy of a community coming together to celebrate with music. Little Patmos doesn’t even have a movie theater, let alone big concerts. This one festival is its pride.
People come from other islands. And as much as it’s publicized to visitors, the free series of concerts is primarily for the locals who take great pride in their culture, community and their two major holy sites – the Monastery of St. John up at the top of the hill in the tiny town of Hora, and the Cave of the Apocalypse.
In a glowing amphitheater overlooking the sea at a concert opened with the words of their spiritual leader, the people of little Patmos felt they had something special – something important. As far as everyone at the concert was concerned – we were sitting the seat of culture. It was, for a night, the center of Greece.
Unfortunately for Emily, the center wasn’t red hot. It wasn’t even very warm. The first day of September brought a cool wind that changed the entire feel from hot and dry to cool and breezy. The day was the most delightful weather we’ve had this whole trip. But the evening breeze up in the hill might as well have been the winds of the apocalypse for tank top wearing Emily who did not expect such cool night temperatures.
Next concert we’ll bring sweatshirts. In fact, if this keeps up, evening may just be sweatshirt time. Of course, September is fickle and the winds and temperatures can turn on a dime. Still, the first signs of Fall came early and perhaps the heat will begin to break.
When our concert ended, the Hollywood Bowl-like atmosphere took a sudden turn, just as it does at the Hollywood bowl. The warm community of Patmos enjoying spiritual brotherhood through song quickly began dissolving midway through the last song, dashing for their motor scooters and cars to avoid “traffic”. It was every man for himself.
Police on hand – the first cops we’ve seen here – were trying to organize the chaos of everyone going every which way at the exit of the cave facility which lies on the curve of a two lane road. The cops were less effective than they could have been. They knew all the drivers and often chatted with them through car windows.
While the chaos itself may have lasted for as long as ten minutes, the people of Patmos showed that they can do more with the space allotted in a two lane road than anyone else on the planet.
So it was, with scooters and car engines fired-up, and vehicles racing in every direction that Environment Day ended.
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