Our First Year: Everywhere

Emily and Eric got married on June 27, 2010 and leave for a year of travel on July 13th. This is the story of their traveling, working online, first year of marriage adventure through the Mediterranean, Southwest and Southeast Asia.

L’Chaim, Etz Chaim

Every time we finished the kiddush, the blessing over the wine, Rabbi Paskow would say "L'Chaim, Etz Chaim!" My family went to Temple Etz Chaim in Thousand Oaks, California for most of my childhood and well beyond. I was Bar Mitzvahed there and it was a thriving, growing temple where people were proud to be Jewish and be part of a Jewish community.

Here in Chania, there is also an Etz Chaim – although they spell it Etz Hayyim (just a different transliteration from the Hebrew). However, this Temple Etz Chaim is under siege. In January, the synagogue survived its second arson attack in the past few years. Several visiting foreigners – British, French and American – did it. One of them even came to Friday night Shabbat services previously as the synagogue opens its doors to all. 

This beautiful synagogue tucked away in a small, narrow alley of Old Town Chania has been around for almost 600 years and unlike the synagogues in Rhodes, remains active. While much smaller than the Etz Chaim I knew – and definitely without the nice air conditioning system – the beautiful woodwork and the sheer feel of old and revered make it gorgeous and inviting. 

Walking in, you know instantly that it takes a proud, dedicated community to maintain such a synagogue through the ages. I have seen nothing like it before, but somehow I could feel what went into it. It can't have been easy for these people to have kept it alive. The man who showed us around cherished it. 

The Cretan Jews are no dummies. We found the synagogue because of their signage clear from the busy touristy walkways of the old city. During the day, they keep the doors open with volunteers offering tours and encouraging people to see their beautiful synagogue. They have a sign for a suggested donation of €2 a person, but more importantly they make it clear that they are under siege and need help. 

While we were there, Israeli tourists poured in and out – including a large tour group. The man who showed us around not only spoke great English, but enough Hebrew to have basic chats with the Israelis. He and his congregation need them.

Many 500+ year old books were burned and can never be replaced. The synagogue was restored because Etz Chaim/Etz Hayyim means "Tree of Life" and these people refuse to relinquish it. They keep their roots and grow again. Now, they have security – off duty police – daily from 6 pm to 6 am, but they can't afford it during the day – so they have volunteers standby. 

And while they guard their synagogue, they make it clear that everyone is welcome – travelers, non-Jews, everyone. Etz Hayyim won't let a bad experience change their ways. We were told how welcome we would be at Friday night services and that if we needed a place for High Holidays, they bring in a rabbi from Israel for it. Please come.

"We welcome everyone to Shul this Friday evening as we do every Friday evening…." our Rabbi – who founded Etz Chaim – said ritualistically as he started Shabbat services. Rabbi Paskow would be proud of this Etz Hayyim.
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Sent from my iPad

Sent from my iPad

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