Heading down the hill to Agriolivadi I was surprised by how few cars and motorcycles were in the parking lot – especially at 12:30. My mind raced for easy answers – there’s no cruise ship at anchor, it’s rather windy today… Those don’t make much sense. The island is near peak capacity with overnight guests and on a windy day, the beaches on the east side of the island – Meloi, Agriolivadi, Kampos, Vagia and Livadi Geranou – are the safe-havens. Given only Agrio and Kampos are “organized beaches” – having lounge chairs and umbrellas for rent by the day – Agrio should be busy.
“Maybe someone pooped in the pool?” I thought – realizing immediately that while Agrio is swimming pool calm and clear, I don’t think that phenomenon applies.
When I got to the beach cafe, where I decided to write, work and swim today, the answer became clear-ish. The lounge chairs – or sunbeds as they’re sometimes called – were all empty, no cushions, umbrellas all absent and some turned on their side with red and white tape around them. Public health crisis? Wind so strong it created a safety concern? Something happened to Andreas and he didn’t show up to open the beach?
Only as I turned the corner, Andreas was there, walking my way, only no hat and heavy sun gear. As I made my way to his stand/office and the sheds where the cushions are kept, the real answer was truly clear – “Closed Due To Tax Violations from 3/8/26 until 5/8/26 In Execution Of No 9/26 Act” on government tape criss-crossing the sheds.
As I expressed my shock and offered my sympathies, Andreas’ dad – who ran the concession for untold years before handing it off to his son, but sometimes sits there because he can’t quite exit, nor does he want to jump up and handle much of anything – laughed in a way that suggested “these government people are assholes and this is the most absurd thing I have ever seen.” The man can pack a lot into a laugh.
I chose not to inquire into the undoubtedly complicated story behind the event. Although Google Gemini suggested a two day shut-down using that tax code references probably means the government is claiming either physical receipts weren’t issued to customers or cash register sales weren’t electronically transmitted to the tax authorities.
They get to reopen tomorrow (in Europe dates are day first, month second for anyone who didn’t catch that). It was a two-day penalty levied at the peak of the tourism season – clearly meant to hurt. I’m not sure if the action was aimed more at Andreas’ family, Stefanos’ family – who owns the taverna, cafe and most of the surrounding land in the cove – or both. From what I understand about how the beach concessions work, Stefanos’ family likely holds the rights to it because of their property and businesses – and in some way or another, worked out pulled Andreas’ father into the deal to run the beach chairs themselves. It’s even possible they’re all related and so it’s family through and through. However you cut it, both are very much affected. Without the beach chairs, tourists largely go elsewhere, vastly reducing the food service business.
I have no way to estimate Stefanos’ losses, but Andreas’ business model is easier to calculate. I figure he has about 230 chairs, each going for 15 euros a day and on a day like today, they would normally be full – maybe even have some turnover with double seating. He also makes money from renting kayaks, pedal boats, and paddle boards. We’ll put that revenue to the side. Just from each seat being occupied once – Andreas and his father who finds himself just having to laugh – lose 3,450 euros per day which at today’s exchange rate is just a hair under $4,000. So, $8,000 in lost revenue – minimum. That has to hurt.
I’m well aware Patmians have a populist streak. Government – particularly the national government – usually puts clouds in their coffee. From the fire trucks that can’t respond to emergencies faster than the local volunteer fire unit that make use of the island’s water delivery trucks to the attempted closure of the local power plant in favor of an undersea cable to bring electricity from Samos to the strict enforcement of helmet laws in the past two years – Patmians generally say “Feh”.
Personally, I see the other side of all of these issues. The red firetrucks brought in summer give tourists confidence they’re safer and if nothing else, those are two more vehicles capable of response should God forbid a significant fire broke out. Perhaps there’s a way the professional firefighters and the local volunteers could work better together and the 112 calls weren’t routed to Athens causing dispatch of the red trucks to take so long when Patmians know calling one of the local water truck guys will bring help much faster. The undersea cable scheme caused more power instability on Leros – which is what worries Patmians about the same occurring here, even though the local power station burns fuel and is therefore both costly and environmentally less sound. And honestly, an island with only a small health center, not a hospital, might really benefit from wearing helmets and seatbelts.
But this is where my Californian outlook stays safely tucked away in a locked box. There is no win to saying, “But guys, helmets save lives!”
The only response I can offer that is neither a lie, nor a betrayal is “500 euros is way too much for a fine! Poor [insert name of person who received a ticket]!”
Thus, in today’s situation at Agriolivadi, I didn’t want to know why the police or inspector or tax collector – or whoever carries the tape – did what they did. My response is “That really sucks, I’m so sorry!”
Andreas fluctuated between shrugging it off and being pissed. He wants to be the guy who embraces the unexpected vacation day, which is why he went swimming with his three-year-old daughter and earlier enjoyed some time swimming at Meloi. He plans to go home later and spend time with his family. It makes sense – Andreas works really hard without a day off from May 1st to October 20th. The situation is only more tragic if he doesn’t get a little rest and family time. At the same time, Andreas and his dad want to make sure there’s no misuse or vandalism to their chairs and operation, which is why I found Andreas at his usual post.
Anything governmental seems complicated on Patmos. There seems to be an almost inherent conflict between island and central government. I’m sure in the eyes of people trying to reduce dependence on expensive and environmentally harmful fossil fuels for electricity, laying undersea power cables from larger islands with larger power generation capacity and sustainable energy makes all the sense in the world. From a big picture, strategic perspective – that’s what you do. From the island population’s point of view, a bunch of people who don’t have to live with the consequences of a poorly executed plan are making big decisions with their lives.
I’m sure Patmians – and other smaller island populations – look like rubes to the national government. To Patmians, the national government is – charitably speaking – full of blockheaded bureaucrats who have no idea the impact of their decisions. The salt to the wound is – islands like Patmos are massive tax generators. The Dodecanese in particular has produced economic growth during times when mainland Greece has stagnated. Patmians wouldn’t mind a high five and a little more “how can I help you today?” from their government.
The conflict between island and mainland is exacerbated by enforcement mechanisms. Police are put in place by the national government. Locals cannot serve on Patmos. They’re welcome to become police officers – but they’ll be assigned elsewhere. Tax collectors come from elsewhere to run audits and unannounced random inspections – especially in the summer. The current situation at Agrio makes it quite clear why. If enforcement were left to Patmians, they would come up with some kind of handshake deal – assuming there wouldn’t be corruption. No one would really want to punish Andreas or Stefanos and certainly not Andreas’ bitterly laughing dad who is probably godfather to at least twenty children around the island.
At the same time, the national government’s hands are not as free as this biting enforcement might make them appear. Yes, they took a hard stand that will undoubtedly send shockwaves through the island. However, two days’ shutdown isn’t that harsh compared to what the IRS, California Franchise Tax Board or any health department across the US might do. Why? Enforcement impacts tourists – and that’s not something the Greek government wants to mess with either from a reputation or a tax revenue perspective. Ruining people’s Greek island vacation comes with consequences.
As a result, it’s unlikely any potential back taxes have been paid. From the look of stern-faced Stefanos sitting at a table at his outdoor taverna, on the phone for more than an hour, I don’t think he’s going gently into that good night.
I certainly don’t know enough to evaluate this particular situation. I’m in the Andreas and Stefanos camp because they’re my peeps. I also know from others I like and trust that enforcement is sometimes seen as a shakedown.
For example, a month or two ago Manolis who runs the organic shop was fined for not having a up-to-date log book of people who have purchased tobacco or nicotine products from him. The problem? He doesn’t sell any tobacco or nicotine-laced products. He runs an organic store, for God’s sake. Nonetheless, there’s a statute that says retail shops that sell food must maintain a logbook for tobacco sales. Manolis actually had one – he just didn’t get one for the current fiscal year. When inspected by the local police, he showed them his empty book, explained he doesn’t sell nicotine products and therefore didn’t update his book. They still fined him 500 euros – which was expensive enough to make him call a high-ranking friend in the national police force who in turn made a call to the commander on Patmos who dropped the ticket.
It’s not like we don’t have a similar phenomenon in our own country. Rural states often feel trampled by regulations designed by and for more populated states with their urban and suburban problems to solve. Coastal states with denser populations are often shocked by the resistance and seeming ignorance of conservative rural states. The Founders – understanding broad geography, varying economies and different traditions endemic to foundation of different colonies – sought to minimize this kind of problem my empowering states, relying on the federal government less for day-to-day governance than big common issues like common defense, trade agreements, common currency and foreign policy.
The world has changed – particularly because of communications, transportation and technology. The federal government is more powerful than ever because you can’t have fifty standards for phone lines or fifty sets of regulations for internet providers or car manufacturers. As we know because we saw it happen, if even one state allows gay marriage, what are we to do with the Full Faith and Credit clause of the Constitution? Americans are more tied together than ever, and yet we’re completely alienating one another.
If only everyone could take a deep breath and go swimming at Meloi for the morning.
