New Years Festivities In God’s Own Country

“What is your place?”

“America.”

“Oh, America! Obama! When do you leave?”

“Next week.”

“Do you like here – God’s Own Country?” (That’s Kerala’s tourism motto)

“Yes, very much! It’s so beautiful. People are so nice.”

“Your name?”

“Eric.”

“Happy New Year!!!”

Shake hands.

Insert Emily on the second to last quote and you have both versions of the same conversation we had repeatedly for over an hour as we stood on the beach watching the performance stage and fireworks.

The handshake was the most important part of the deal. Literally hundreds of people shook our hands as we walked along. Men just ran up to say “Happy New Year!” and get a quick handshake even without the standard interview.

Our Australian friends Anita and Nathan were also flooded with attention. I believe the consulates of both our governments owe us for the goodwill and PR work we performed – especially for President Obama.

The chanting on the stage seemed to mark the beginning of the new year – although they announced it four minutes ahead of schedule on both Emily and Nathan’s watches. When Emily and I kissed (conservatively) at midnight, it was slightly scandalous. Even more so when we stood watching the fireworks with my arms around her. Normally, we go with the cultural norm – but for New Year’s decided on measured and moderate scandal.

The fireworks on Alleppey beach were good quality. There was no fire department standing by. Probably no permit and perhaps no one professional operating them. They went off one at a time – no advanced, multi-launch pyrotechnics. But fireworks nonetheless. And the crowd on the beach was captivated.

There were thousands of people – mostly men in large groups – out there despite the night’s rain. Yesterday was the first day with any rain we’ve had in India and while it cleared for most of the afternoon, it came back mid-evening, causing many people to leave the beach festival early. If we hadn’t seen them leave with our own eyes, we would never have believed that there was anyone missing.

During our five hours of drinks and dinner with Anita and Nathan at the nicest restaurant in Alleppey which is directly across the street from the beach, we watched lightning storms and eventually a strong downpour. In fact, we had to move tables from the beautiful outdoor courtyard to the restaurant’s covered upstairs where we stayed until 11:40 when the rains let up just in time for the fireworks to still be possible.

Dinner itself was a fantastic four-course gourmet meal complete with drinks. We had our choice of entrees and everyone except me chose the barbecue seafood platter which included a lobster. I had my concerns about seafood in India, so I stuck to the chicken tikka masala meal – but so far, everyone is alive and well. All the dinners as was the fresh coconut and rum “punch”.

Being out with friends at a nice restaurant with a festival and fireworks on the beach was more than we had expected for New Year’s and a fantastic way to bring in 2011. It was especially nice that Anita and Nathan extended their time in Alleppey an extra two days and joined us.

It wasn’t until we tried to leave the festivities that things got crazy. While there were tons of auto-rickshaw taxis parked everywhere, they were really all just parked. Their drivers used their vehicles to transport themselves, their families and friends to the festivities – but they were off-duty. We couldn’t find many taxis with drivers anywhere near them and when we did, they usually turned us away.

Eventually, we used the roulette approach to finding a taxi. We placed each of us at a different parked auto-rickshaw within a certain area and decided to wait. Perhaps between us, we could catch one driver coming back who would be willing to take us. But the ball dropped on 0 and after almost a half-hour of trying, we resigned ourselves to walk and follow the crowds along the town streets. All the while, hundreds of people passed yelling Happy New Year to us, some approaching for handshakes.

Just as we began walking, a taxi was with no one in it was driving in our direction. Emily saw her moment and with all her might, yelled and flagged down that auto-rickshaw. Your average auto-rickshaw comfortably holds two foreigners. A larger one – like this was – holds three. We had four. Nathan ended up on Anita’s lap and eventually moved to share the very small front bench with the driver – where he helped navigate and direct since the driver wasn’t completely sure about how to get us home.

At one point the driver had us on the right road, but not far enough along. Nathan tried explaining, “It’s further down the road, you have to go until you see the bridge….” and we could all see the words bounce off the tired and not so English-educated driver’s forehead.

“Try ‘straight’ – ‘So straight’,” I said because we respond to most questions with “So beautiful”, “So tasty”, “So good”.

“So straight,” Nathan said and it worked. Nathan just told him where to stop down the road and we were home in time for another downpour.

All around the Keralaeeyam were the sounds and blasts of people firing off their own fireworks – and some playing music.

In the morning we awoke to boats full of locals and Indian tourists sailing by, some blasting music and almost all yelling, “HAPPY NEW YEAR!!” especially when they saw us on our porch.

At noon, Anita and Nathan came over to say goodbye. We went with them into town for lunch and parted in the streets of Alleppey. We hope to stay in touch with them – it’s fun to make friends along the way.

Town is quieter than usual today and in the restaurant we saw a number of families out for special lunches. Keraleeyam is quiet too – with most of the guests seeming extra relaxed and social. And Emily is spending the afternoon in her favorite chair on the porch facing the backwaters – trying not to leave it any more than absolutely necessary. Staring out at the idyllic scene is the perfect way to welcome in a new year.

Sent from my iPad