Nieces And Nice

When you’re in France and the day comes for your nieces’ birthday party, there’s only one thing to do – go to Nice. After a quick ride on the TGV(!!!), I celebrated Bailey and Hayden’s birthdays as best I could in Nice. Sure, it’s probably not as phenomenal as whatever their mother, Molly has done for their birthday extravaganza, because Nice can’t plan a party like Molly. But Nice comes with its own sense of fantastic – so, I went.

Lesson of the day – never underestimate the power of your nieces or Nice. The phenomenal cuteness of our nieces are enough to pull Emily across the world to be there for their birthday. And Nice – which I thought would be just a bigger Cannes doing much the same fantastic French Mediterranean thing – has other things going on.

For example it feels considerably more French. In fact, it feels very Bel Age French – like a Mediterranean Paris. Full of beautiful old buildings of amazing architecture and color which are exquisitely maintained. Nice is firmly rooted in tradition and culture.

This very French feel surprised me because Nice has only been a part of France for 150 years. In 1860 it struck a deal with Napoleon III to merge its independent principality under the House of Savoy. For hundreds of years prior, it resisted French annexation and so, I figured it would feel distinct. Maybe even a little Italian since it’s so close to the border.

Nice feels French and gorgeous. The squares, the grand architecture, the fountains and of course the sparkling Mediterranean. In one small spot, it even has the multi-colored water beach with the same dazzling shade I love as in Rhodes. And it was all I could do not to jump in – clothes and all.

Nice is known for its thriving cultural scene with theater, dance, music, ballet and opera and most of all art. Nice is filled with art museums which in 2008 it decided to make free of charge. All museums, all the time. Given that it was a frequent haunt of many, if not most of France’s most renown 19th century painters and authors including Cezanne, Matisse and Renoir, this should surprise no one. The Nicoise do not just consider themselves guardians of salad, but also of a tradition of French modern art.

One look around and I can see clearly why so many artists would find inspiration here in a town which takes the art of its architecture and public space as seriously as its dazzling surroundings.

Something about French opera houses does it for me. The Paris Opera House, or the Palais Garnier amazes me when I see it. The opera here in Nice is no different. It was built around the same time as its cousin in Paris, and I wonder if the same architects weren’t involved. The Palais Garnier, like the annexation of Nice was orchestrated by Napoleon III – which any good Francophile should consider the scourge of French “royalty” as he was more of a dictator who used his uncle’s name to legitimize his dismantling the Second Republic and impairing democracy for 22 years.

Most reports are that he wasn’t a very smart man as evidenced by the fact that he was captured by the Prussian army while sitting on the side of a battlefield (where he went to get away from his wife and his political problems in Paris) – sick and in very poor health – during the Franco-Prussian War. Louis Napoleon Bonaparte died in a Prussian prison while the generals who formed the Third Republic made no attempt to get him out. Bravo, Karma.

But for all that – many of his civic projects like the Palais Garnier, the Egyptian Obelisk in la Place de la Concorde (added in part to help people forget that’s where the guillotine operated during the Revolution) and the new additions to the Louvre were excellent choices for Paris.

He did a nice job with Nice too (no pun intended).

Nice has one thing I have found unique in France – appreciation for others. Nice seems to remember and honor those who have come to its aid and helped it. The Quay Etas-Unix sits in honor of the American entry into World War I and the Promenade d’Anglais denotes both the English tourists and expats who played a large part of the city’s 19th century development as well as the wartime Anglo alliances. Bravo, Nice for humility and gratitude.

Another lesson from Nice – American ice cream, gelato, cheese and all dairy products are inferior because we kill all microbes in our milk and cream. French law allows dairies to leave a small amount of microbes deemed safe which – according to a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic young gelato maker – are responsible for the great taste of their dairy products. All I said to spark the conversation was that I hadn’t seen flavors like his before…. I just wanted a scoop of candied chestnut!

The most impressive aspect of Nice is that it’s a city made to be photographed. It offers great angles, colors and practically poses for the camera. Cannes’s broad, shiny, sweeping waterside is overwhelming and very difficult to capture. Nice has the layout to let the camera document its magic.

This brings us back to nieces – who both undoubtedly have their camera faces down to an art. I don’t think I’ve met a child as ready for a camera at all times as Bailey. Many of you will remember Bailey from her show-stopping role as flower girl and non-stop dancer at our wedding. I have no doubt that this year’s party – which I am sad to have missed – was as full of adorable, heart-melting photos of Bailey and Hayden (aka Sweet Girl) in adorable princess dresses for their princess party.

Happy Birthdays, Bailey and Hayden!

Sent from my iPad