Our First Year: Everywhere

Emily and Eric got married on June 27, 2010 and leave for a year of travel on July 13th. This is the story of their traveling, working online, first year of marriage adventure through the Mediterranean, Southwest and Southeast Asia.

Rhodos, Lindos and My Smiling Problem

It started out as an day trip by bus and quickly evolved into our first overseas road trip. We wanted to go to the tiny,IMG_0050 traditional-style town of Lindos in Southeastern Rhodes and had planned to take the bus for a total of €20 round-trip. Then our hotel owner advised us to visit the best beach on the island just 11 km north of Lindos, but 2km off the main road where the bus would drop us off. How could we pass up the best beach?

So, we decided to rent a motor scooter like half the tourists on the island and ride down there. But apparently, EU licenses allow for motor scooters on their standard licensing, but American licenses don't. And we were told that even though many places would still rent to us, the penalties shouldIMG_0041 we get stopped weren't worth it.

So, we rented a car for €40 and we were on our way – through the insanity that is Greek driving. Really, the craziest part was just getting our of Rhodes town – or Rhodos (said with a Sean Connery sounding "s") as the locals call it. I learned quickly that the rules are few but they include using any space to go forward that may be available, only slowing down for Stop signs, and go as fast as you possibly can wherever you can.

We found our way down the highway that runs the east coast of the island where we found views of incredibly turquoise water, valleys and hills lined with olive groves, a surprising number of resort hotels – and a Carrefour (the French version of a super-Target which in Asia was IMG_0043always the best grocery store in town).

As the signs told us we were getting close to Lindos, Emily began saying, "Maybe down that road on the left? Maybe that turn?" And then, as we took a curve over a hill was Lindos, shining like star, wrapped around the most beautiful cove of water imaginable. A traditional looking, stark white Greek village rising up the hill, with a large acropolis surrounding by Roman walls sitting at the top. Lindos is the best picture postcard of a Greek village possible.

It was also an oven. When we parked that car, we found Lindos had its own special weather system with the kind oIMG_0044 f dry heat one experiences on a summer day in Van Nuys. But the shady, narrow, pedestrian streets of the town weren't that bad and stores and restaurants had their not so traditional air conditioners blasting so hard we could feel them in the streets.

Lindos is the Solvang of Rhodes. Behind it's cute traditional Greek Village looks is a tourist crap selling Mecca. Anyone visiting Lindos should be prepared to buy kitschy clothing, souvenirs while enjoying Nutella and something on a crepe to be kicked back with a gelato (not that there's anything wrong with that).

But aside from climbing to the Acropolis or going down to the beautiful beach, Lindos has very little to offer except IMG_0051 its breathtaking charm. So after some lunch and walking around, we headed up to Haraki, the beach recommended to us.

As the narrow road turned a sharp bend, we found the most perfect beach of pure, clear, refreshing water. Just a few summer rental apartments and restaurants surrounded the hidden gem of a beach, leaving it sparsely used and fantastic for swimming in its shallow, cool waters.

Our final adventure of the day was to find a particular seafood restaurant in an outer part of Rhodos, away from the tourist areas, famous among locals for seafood. Emily's cravings for seafood have been getting stronger lately and she was waiting to appease them with what she proclaimed would be a "seafood feast".

Of course, anyone who can find the restaurant on their own deserves a feast, if not a banquet in their honor for having achieved their goal. As we looked for the barely visible street signs to match up with our map, we quickly discovered that most of Rhodos has one way streets and alleys. And what's harder is that pronouncing street names like Dendrinou, Venetoklean, and Hatziangelou.

Conversations turned into – "Take Kondrigotonos to Hazti-whatever and make a left." and "I don't think Mouschou's even on the map!" and "I think Kiprianou goes through…." and even, "I don't think you can drive cars in that one." "Oh, sure you can…" followed by a dead end and what amounted to a 23 point turn to get the car turned the other way.

In the end, we had a seafood feast at a different restaurant we discovered nearby our intended destination (which we found) and with lobster, shrimp, mussels, paella and more – it was only €30 for the both of us. Worth figuring out if Anastasia connects to Peloponissou.

But in all the days adventure with our avid photo taking – an issue was repeatedly brought to my attention. I don't smile well for cameras. It's not the first time this has been brought to my attention, but today, I really tried. And the efforts just produced just pitiful results. I learned that not only do I not smile well for cameras, but that when I try, poor and stupid looking results come from it and I'm really at a loss about what to do. Below is a photo essay outlining my predicament.

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One Response

  1. Love the photo essay and all of your stories. Hope you and Emily are having the time of your lives! Keep smiling!

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