If he hadn’t asked about my iPad, we never would have had the conversation – we never would have known the extent of it. The life of cliques, group and social networks – closed and open – on this island is apparently very active and widespread. But it’s kept away from the transient tourist crowd. Somehow, little Patmos is teeming with the secret social world of the intelligentsia, the artistic and the well-off and it has mostly escaped us.
Sure, we had a hint of the social cliques from our lesson on Kampos beach. It appeared to be what we considered, “family camp.” But according to the nice British gentlemen we talked in one of the local bakery and gelato cafes yesterday, there’s much more than meets the eye.
This man – this socially connected retirement age British physicist who looked remarkably like Nigel from “The Family Guy” and sounds a bit like James Mason man – had a lovely, innocuous conversation with us about computers.
We learned that he and his wife have been coming to Patmos for 27 years and until recently, had a decent-sized house here. His kids are now grown and no longer show interest in using the Patmos house, which prompted he and his wife to sell their house (probably for a lot more than they paid 27 years ago) and just rent a place when the come to Patmos.
Then, after our friendly conversation about computers and our mutual love of Patmos was done, he ran off to get gelato to his wife. Our world was still intact at this point.
But our James Mason friend returned and invited us to an “open party” near Kampos beach. we could meet at George’s Cafe until 9 pm, and then the party would move to someone’s house – but he didn’t know whose. He gave us a phone number for the organizer and were told to call and get the coordinates if we wanted. Secret party phone number – awesome.
He explained that there are many social circles on Patmos with an average wealth greater than that of Monaco. In addition, artists, locals, and successful people from around Europe come to Patmos every year and run in groups – some of which are open to anyone, others are very exclusive. Our James Mason, apparently, has been here long enough to have access to all.
“Hora is an intensely social scene. Just intensely social….” Which made us wonder what that means exactly. The sleepy monasterial town of Hora is nowhere you’d find a raging party and it has very few restaurants – which are all small, touristy places. There is a very expensive resort-hotel somewhere on a hillside there. That’s about it.
We got the feeling from the conversation and from the bits we’ve learned from other conversations with Patmos regulars that there are probably dinner parties. You’re invited or you’re not. You either know which door to go to, or you have the secret phone number. It’s an “intensely social” speak-easy.
What we have gathered is that George’s Cafe on Kampos is a hub for those in the know. We picked up on that last week and it was reinforced last night. What we don’t know is who are all these people who are more elite than the Monaco crowd? Exactly what do they do? And most importantly, what exactly is is “intensely social.”
There are mysteries on Patmos we were clearly unaware of and feel a strong need to explore.
Unfortunately and fortunately, we had another social commitment last night with a very cool American couple probably a few years younger than us who I met at a cafe where we were working. James Mason approached us literally minutes before we were supposed to leave for our dinner date, and so the secret number will just have to go on file.
We hope to run into him again today and may work at the same place just to see if we catch him. So many questions remain and we want to understand this other Patmos. We want to know what keeps people coming back for 27 years.
But our social engagement was fun and fantastic too. Garrett and Morgan from New York are really cool and interesting people and it was great to meet some people our age enjoying a place we love so much too. We talked travel and life – and enjoyed a mutual sense of humor. It may have been the first dinner we’ve had with anyone where it felt like going out with our friends at home. I guess that’s the thing about meeting Americans our own age.
We suggested that when they take their next vacation in the Spring that they go to Southeast Asia and perhaps we can all meet-up again. Making friends along the way is one of the best parts about travel.
So, on our very last day on Patmos we sit wondering about what is going on up on the hill in Hora, what Samos will be like, and which places we should go for one last glimpse. We keep comforting ourselves with the Patmos Pact. We will return. We will go to George’s Cafe and find this other side of Patmos. And we will go to Petra beach once again for a day of aquatic perfection.
Sent from my iPad
