Grasse doesn’t appear like a town with money flowing through it like a river. It has absolutely no glitz whatsoever and its truly amazing parts are hundreds of years old with narrow, windy roads and buildings dating back to the 13th century. The old town gets its fair share of tourists going up and down its steep inclines, but Grasse is very much lived-in. When I arrived, there was a big weekend market in the town square.
For centuries, Grasse has been the home to the perfume industry. Whatever name brand and bottle you choose, chances are good that its contents come from Grasse. There are several large perfumeries which manufacture fragrances for labels worldwide and then a large number of boutique perfumers around town. They all sell their own house fragrances and scented products direct to the public.
Outside the town on the hillsides and valleys are fields where nearly every flower, herb and scented plant are grown. Come at different times of year and you can walk fields of lilacs, roses, lilies, lavender and whatever is blooming at the time.
My favorite depiction of Grasse – and I’ve thought of it constantly both times I’ve gone – is in the movie “Perfume” which partly takes place in Grasse. Both deeply dark and yet, beautifully done – “Perfume” gives breathtaking depictions of Grasse and what it was like 250 years ago.
Because Grasse sits up against the mountains, it tends to be cooler and get more cloud cover – which of course, helps with its flower growing. So, both times I’ve been the weather has been overcast and cool which somehow mixes in my head with the dark tone of the movie and leaves me feeling a certain sense of mystery and awe as I wander the town.
I went to Grasse to buy my cologne. Three years ago, I bought a fragrance at the Molinard perfumery that I like and more importantly, Emily likes on me. Since it’s not sold commercially in America, there are only a few ways to get it. One apparently, is to order it online like Emily did for my last birthday. But the other – and by far the more fun one – is to walk into Molinard and buy it. So, I did.
Molinard is not the easiest perfumery to reach. For that matter, Grasse isn’t the easiest town to walk. Traversing up and down windy, steep roads and staircases, you get your workout in Grasse. In fact, many of the staircases are given proper street names such as Traverse Emile Zola and Traverse Victor Hugo. They just love naming for authors.
I happen to like cologne and have gone through periods where I would never consider myself fully dressed without a fragrance. So, sniffing through the various tester bottles is a lot of fun for me.
Picking a gift for Emily was a lot more challenging. Fragrance is so personal. How do I decide what smell says “Emily”? I got help from a fantastically knowledgeable Molinard lady. I then sprayed and sniffed until my nose was overloaded and I needed some fresh air. Unfortunately, I didn’t find what I wanted at Molinard.
So, back up the hill I went to the largest and most commercial of the perfumeries – Fragonard. This major perfume maker – named for the renown Rococo painter who is one of Grasse’s favorite sons – has expanded with outlet stores and “museum tours” in a number of locations throughout France, including Paris. Their very large selection yielded options I considered more “Emily” and which I hope she will too.
While I enjoy Grasse for its ancient and yet very Provence feel, I’m intrigued most with a town which – unlike Cannes – doesn’t celebrate its success and display it, but keeps it quiet. Grasse remains rooted in its rich traditions and past. It lives humbly, enjoying its flowers and fragrances. And the most interesting and telling thing of all – the thing that sets Grasse apart and explains its nature – is one particular, narrow street with a barely noticeable sign – Street Of The Old Dream.
Street Of The Old Dream
Molinard
Here was born on 5 April 1732 Jean Honore Fragonard, Painter of the King
The City of Grasse, in honor of his son affixed this plaque for his bicentennial. Year 1932.
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