These Fishies Love Me!

"They love me! These fishies love me!" Ailyn said while giggling loudly. "I've been petting them. I just pet that one on its poop hole!"

We were standing in the shallow water at the beach of Ko Talu, a small, uninhabited island that is part of the same national park as Ko Samet. the light gray and sometimes black and white striped or yellow striped fish hang out very close the shore and it's easy to stand among them while they pass by. While Bailey and Emily also enjoyed the experience, Ailyn was truly delighted. and the fish probably were too – everyone loves Ailyn.

Ko Talu was the last stop of six islands in our tour that was supposed to be six islands in five hours – but really ran at more of an island per hour pace. However, this was one of the few times when Thai delays worked in our favor. No one was sorry to spend the time – especially in the three snorkeling/swimming spots. One thing our family enjoys with enthusiasm is jumping off boats to swim.

While two of the snorkeling spots had deep coral and tropical fish to observe, the one Ailyn enjoyed so much had fish that are fairly mundane in Thailand and which even ten years ago inhabited the beaches of Ko Samet. Until I saw them, I hadn't realized that they were missing from Samet – which was a little sad.

In the other snorkeling locations – one on another side of Ko Talu and the other off Ko Khang Khao – the more rich set of fish were more varied and attractive, although not as much for Sennen who claims to have identified Lion Fish and Surgical Fish – both of which can be dangerous. "Daddy, Lion Fish are predators. Surgical Fish can slice you apart. I'm going back to the boat."

I'm not sure if he was correct about which fish he saw, or if this is a case of too much nonfiction reading in his Epic app, but the middle of the Gulf of Thailand wasn't the place to sort it out. I pointed out that Lion Fish and Surgical Fish cannot come up as high to the surface as we were – that they need to be in a more pressurized layer of water. Sennen needed some reassurance that this was true so I told him how when I've gone sea fishing, the fish usually die on the way up to the surface when their swim bladders and/or gills blow out due to the change in pressure. That did the trick and he went back to snorkeling.

Despite the predator fish incident, I found myself impressed at how well and comfortably Sennen handled himself in the water. I guess between summer swimming and all our boat days across various countries and locations, he has become adept at navigating mid-sea. His only real faux pas is that he doesn't care who is around when he kicks. A few times I offered him my hand or arm when I thought he might need help and instead he grabbed it as a way to propel himself forward faster – launching off my body. That's when I realized he doesn't need my help anymore. I suppose this is the evolution of the boy who at five years-old we tentatively allowed to take off his floating donut while swimming in the Aegean and yelled, "I'm free, I'm free" as he swam along unaided.

As for Bailey, who at last writing was miserably draped over her bed, she woke up feeling better – not amazing, but better – and decided she wanted to go on a boat day. At first, we were delighted at her report that she was feeling good. But by the time we were at breakfast and she didn't want more than a few bites of toast, we became concerned. For an hour and a half, Emily and I exchanged glances, quickly talked when Bailey got up to use the restroom and kept letting Bailey know we could push the boat excursion to another day. But Bailey came out clear that she wanted to go and that she thought it was better than resting at home or on the beach. So, with some trepidation and no shortages of warnings and concern, we went. What we discovered was that Bailey felt lethargic when sitting, but amazing when swimming. So the snorkeling parts of the day went well for her and she got some rest when we were in transit. At dinner she ate a little more than earlier. Not a lot. But a few different and more complex foods went in and stayed down. We're hoping for a full recovery tomorrow.

Emily seemed to be the overall most entranced with the fish in snorkeling spots – often commenting on this school of purple fish and that really large fish of a shape she'd never seen before, and the gorgeousness of the coral over there.

Beyond the snorkeling and the beauty of the water and scenery in this region, there isn't that much to tell. Most of the other islands of Khao Laem Ya National Park are pretty, but not remarkable. They are essentially like little patches of Ko Samet's green but dry interior spotted around the area. Nothing on land was very inspiring. But the fish, snorkeling and swimming were great.

We finished the day back where we usually find ourselves – on the beach. After our excursion speed boat returned us to the Ko Samet Port, Bailey and Emily checked out some shops in the area while I took the kids back to Hat Saikaew and the bar/snack stand with the great music that Emily wanted to try out. After some urgent bathroom needs, a toilet paper crisis, a need for prickly heat wipes, some complaints about hunger, urgent questions from Sennen related to a woman on our trip who had both legs amputated (and everything else anyone could want to know about amputation), an establishment that only had a fraction of what was on their already limited menu and a few other kvetches – Emily and Bailey joined us and we all settled into the nice beanbag lounge chairs and pretty lights on an open and quiet stretch of beach. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset, fantastic music, casual conversation and a noticeably uncrowded Ko Samet. Bailey dozed off for awhile – but it seemed like a great place and time to nap.

After sunset, we adjourned to a long, leisurely dinner which are the only kind on Ko Samet. I had forgotten about how slow service is at a Thai restaurant and even after the holiday crowds have left, the efficiency of the kitchens and servers has not increased. While I love America's standards for food service, I was fine with the pace of the restaurants here. After all, this is Ko Samet. We're having dinner on the beach of an idyllic island – what's the hurry? It's like dining in Greece only there's no concept of courses. In Thailand, food comes out when its cooked – so a main dish may precede and appetizer which may come at the same time as someone else's main dish and the adults get their meals while a child is still waiting for his or hers. But once you accept this, the rest is great.

Following dinner, the obligatory fire twirling show and a stop at the crepe stand for dessert, we headed home and FINALLY got cleaned up. Needless to say, Sennen and Ailyn passed out the minute their heads hit the pillow. Bailey sort of lingered and spent some time flopped out on the sofa before going to bed. We're hoping for a full recovery for tomorrow.

Boat days – as Emily calls them – are almost always some of our favorite and most memorable of our trips (something that actually preceded having children). From sailing around Ko Chang with Arielle to exploring Phang Nga Bay with Matheus to diving into tourmaline waters and grottos off of Patmos – something about swimming off the boat has always made for the best memories. Today was no exception. We just hope that those Lion Fish stay down where they belong and that the Surgical Fish are able to help the ones whose poop holes Ailyn may have plugged up.