It started with the incredible color of blue green in the water along Nice and Cannes. I saw them from the airplane window. You would think after almost two month of time in Greece, I wouldn’t be easily moved by the color of the sea. But there it was – rich and clear – no shimmers, no plant growth patterns underneath – smooth and rich as a swipe of paint. A paint only the south of France can produce.
Then as my airport bus came into town through the back end of town, it was like Cannes unrolled before me. First, the pretty houses and neighborhoods. Then the shopping areas of the Cannet – the “new” part of town up on the hill where most of the locals live. Finally, we crossed into the Croisette or the old town and something inside me lit up like a flame.
The narrow side streets, the big main boulevard, the pastel French buildings, the Mediterranean showing off in the sun – and the vibe I have found to be particular to Cannes. Cannes itself has an awareness and attitude that it is fantastic. Everyone in Cannes knows it too. There are no rough streets, no ugly area, no unsavory element, and until I showed up on that bus – not a bad pair of shoes in town.
I had last been here between Christmas and New Year’s and assumed that this time of year, people might be a little more casual and beach-y. Apparently, the unspoken Cannes dress code is in effect year round. No men’s sandals unless they’re leather and of good brand.
In a sense, it’s amazing how much I love Cannes. For a guy who thinks Patmos – which couldn’t be more casual and relaxed – is one of the best spots on Earth, Cannes is a big jump. Cannes meshes the Mediterranean beauty of Greece with the French zeal for art and style. It is unashamedly materialistic at least as far as clothing and property prices. The Sex and the City people would have a hard time keeping it fresh in Cannes. People here have it down.
You never know how you’ll find something a second time. Places change. We change. It’s been almost three years since I was last in Cannes and it turns out that everything still lines up for us. In fact, it helps that I’m now familiar with the town so I can enjoy the highlights a little more.
This weekend I’ll probably visit Renoir’s house and museum and maybe the Chateau Grimaldi – a 14th century chateau which houses a contemporary art collection – up on the hill. They were closed last time because of the holidays. And I’m thinking of taking the train into either Nice or Grasse tomorrow. How does one choose?
Cannes is great because for all its tourism, there’s no question it’s a real, lived-in city. Unlike Patmos where you know that October breaks the spell and everything turns back into a pumpkin for the winter, people are here being fabulous year-round. Something about it makes me want a piece of it. I want to unlock the secret of how they do it – how they live this way. How do they ALL know how to dress this way? Is there a handbook? How does one keep Cannes at less than 80,000 people? Why doesn’t it attract more people and sprawl out like Los Angeles did? What is their secret?
Cannes has the cosmopolitan attitude of New York and Hong Kong while remaining a relatively small French town on the Mediterranean. For someone who likes both city and the peace and quiet of a beautiful ocean town – Cannes is the Holy Grail.
This time I’m staying in a different part of Cannes – not the old town like last time. I was concerned that being in the Bocca, further west along the beach would make enjoying Cannes a little more difficult. It’s a long walk from the hotel to le Croisette. Thankfully, the good people of Cannes in their infinite wisdom took care of me. Buses run up and down my street every ten to fifteen minutes, take about seven minutes to the Croisette and you can get an unlimited ride pass for only €10 a week. They also run a night bus that goes very late. So, I have a beachside location and quick access to the center of town. The bus stops right in front of my hotel too. Brilliant.
The neighborhood is also cool. Very laid back with more locals. Very cool cafes and businesses line the streets and there are real grocery stores and a daily outdoor fresh produce market. Real people buying real produce as part of their daily routine – so French.
My hotel is actually a big upgrade from my last stay. Given I got a better deal than before, I wasn’t expecting much. Apparently, I was paying for location and history of the building before, because I have a studio apartment setup with kitchenette, large bathroom, entry way, a fantastic bed and balcony with a huge view. I woke up to the sun lighting up Cannes.
So, having received every positive omen for my stay, I went into the heart of town to work and get lunch at a cafe. I couldn’t find a cafe that didn’t have wireless Internet – they were all mine to choose from. And the public squares and waterfront also have free public WiFi.
So, I sat myself down at a cafe overlooking the water that I had liked last visit. They had a lunch special with coffee, entree and dessert for €10 so I inquired what the entree of the day was. I was unfamiliar with the dish, but got clearly that it was some kind of seafood specialty. It turned out to be a mound of fresh seafood in seasonings similar to that of paella. This was the daily lunch special. This is what people have for lunch – at a very reasonable price I might add. Fantastic.
I think it’s also worth noting that people begin drinking before noon and that a carafe of local table wine – about two glasses – costs €3. Wine is cheaper than bottled water.
After working, eating and watching the town, I decided to walk the town in the evening. I enjoyed the beauty of the harbor, the busy streets at sunset and phenomenal shops whose windows tutor you in how to dress like a Cannois. I noticed that the shoe store that last visit had a $2,000 pair of men’s shoes had nothing more expensive than $600. Sign of the times? Perhaps even Cannes has felt spending cutbacks.
Of course, the best part of being here so far has been speaking French. As predicted, I have had my moments of embarrassment. I get excited, speak too quickly and then mess myself up. So, I have decided to learn from the man who owned our hotel in Samos. He spoke very slowly and quite well. He bought himself time to think by speaking deliberately. This is my new strategy.
In my first day, I got positive feedback from a taxi driver, the hotel staff and the woman at the bus station. My waitress lunch waitress spoke casually with me all afternoon. But apparently, by dinner, I was losing it because my dinner waitress looked at me like I was nuts when I tried to ask her what kinds of wines were available. Either you don’t inquire about what the house wine is or I asked very poorly. Or both. I had been up since 3:15 am Turkey time….
What I’ve found is that people usually want to help the guy who tries to speak their language – and I do really use the language, not jut a few phrases from a book. One of the men at the hotel desk saw me get flustered when I wasn’t sure if I had phrased something right and said, “yes, yes, I understand you fine – keep going.” And the woman who was helping me told me that she understands perfectly what it’s like to try to think of what you want to say because that’s how she feels when she uses English with guests. It was like have my own coaches.
More importantly, my best supporter and coach landed safely in Los Angeles and is currently sleeping soundly at her parents’ house. I haven’t yet heard the details of Emily’s trip except that the Munich airport overcharges for WiFi and there’s only one place in the airport where she could plug in her laptop. Beyond that, I gather that the efficient people of Lufthansa flew her home with German precision.
Anyway, I have unpacked my jeans and my one pair of nice black shoes I’ve been carrying around. Time to put them to use so that I at least don’t violate the Cannes Code today…
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