"As we get toward the 15th of August, things really fill up. That's why you see so many Greek tourists here, they come to Patmos because it's a holy island. The 15th of August is the second biggest holiday in Greece after Easter. So, people take their vacations and many who are religious come here," explained Bill, the Greek-American man my age from Brooklyn alongside his wife Effie who I met at the beach a couple of weeks ago and run into around Skala. They come every year for their vacation and to visit Effie's family, many of whom live in Hora.
That was right after I finished visiting with Elliot and his family from Chicago who come every-other-year to visit Elliot's mother who has one house in Hora and her larger "summer house" near the beach in Petra. All standing at Stelio's Gelateria and Cafe – we represented East, West and Middle of America. Of course, they are the typical Greek-Patmosian-American crew who comes for visits. Emily and I are the people who get mistaken for Greek and who on a regular basis have to explain that we are not only not Greek, but we're not Greek-American. We have no actual link to Patmos other than we really enjoy it. People seem to like us anyway.
Elliott and his family – as well as the remainder of ours are getting out just in time to avoid the 15th – the Dormition of Mary, the ascension of Jesus' mother to heaven and reunion with her son – which apparently is a difficult day to even get around Patmos. Saturday night, Emily and I got a preview of what our New York and Chicago associates mean. When the Blue Star 1 ferry pulled up and unloaded Saturday night, the road leading out of Skala toward the southern end of he island became jammed. An actual traffic jam in Patmos – cause by a combination of taxis stopping to drop people off here and there, too many vehicles and vehicles coming in by ferry that are simply too large for Patmos roads. We witnessed Land Rovers, BMW SUV's, Porsche Cayennes and 911's, Jeeps and a beautiful old Jaguar with people riding standing out of the sunroof.
"Where are we?!" Emily exclaimed.
For the first time we've seen, the police had to come and direct traffic. A taxi driver was reprimanded. Cars were told to move onto the shoulder here and to go around the other car there. There was honking. People came out of their shops and hotels to yell a man in a Jeep who was blocking traffic. It was the Orange Crush of Patmos. For 15 minutes. But what a shocking 15 minutes they were!
"The middle of August in Patmos is a mess!" Valentis who works at Alpha Beta told us yesterday.
This sentiment seems to be reiterated by almost everyone here, although the business owners temper their tone as the mess is their big revenue generating moment of the year.
"On Sunday night, everything in Patmos will be booked. 100%. It is impossible to get any more places to stay and everywhere the rooms are 500 euros a night – even in Skala," Yiannis, Nichola's elder son explained.
But it does diminish some of the joy of Patmos. This morning Sennen was actually a little worried about getting to the beach in time to get a good set of seats. He wasn't wrong – so we tried to go as early as possible, especially given they were going to Kampos which with its shallow, calm water and nice sand is the busiest and most family-oriented beach on the island. Matheus watched them while I went back to town – Kampos is my least favorite beach and place to work – but before I left, I watched as he surveyed carefully, trying to find the best seating for watching the kids our of what was available. He definitely faced second-tier seating options. The easy, open days of June and July are over.
The other, sometimes overlooked aspect of the island filling up is the increase in smoke. Greek, Italian and French tourists – who combined probably make up 90% of the island's visitors – are big smokers. There are a notable contingent who vape in their attempt to make a "healthier" choice in the same way that Diet Coke and Reduced Fat Oreos are healthier. But most people are using good, old-fashioned cigarettes and they light up anywhere and everywhere – including at their restaurant tables, in the barber shop and of course at their beach chairs. George's Cafe at Kampos Beach may have the unhealthiest air on Patmos the smoke gets so thick – and it's outdoors.
This, of course, is one of the most difficult things for me to understand. Setting aside how disgusting smoke is and how inconsiderate it is to non-smokers, in countries like Greece, Italy and France with universal, socialized healthcare – which with good reason they proudly tout – also have such high rates of smoking. One would think that countries investing heavily for public healthcare would have strong pressures to not just reduce, but eliminate smoking in order to make the system work. Consider that 21.4% of Italians, 26.9 % of French and a whopping 37% of Greeks smoke – the highest in Europe. Only 15% of Americans smoke – perhaps because smoking adversely affects health insurance rates? I also suspect that public policy (California is practically a no-smoking zone) and strong public awareness campaigns have had a real impact on choices, behaviors and most significantly, social mores. With Europe, the very sensible Swedes have a very low 7% smoking rate. – which is what I would think you would need to make a national healthcare system of their breadth and quality work.
For Ailyn, the times have also become a little strange. She woke up forgetting her mommy left last night. She wasn't deeply saddened when she was reminded, but a look of confusion and uncertainty came across her face. What would the next few days look like without Mommy? It's a question we all face because not only are we not in our stable, home environment – we're at the end of our time here and change is happening among ourselves as well as around the island. The suitcases are packed except a few things for the next few days. We aren't buying any more groceries. I've decided not to make dinner at home for the remaining two nights. We got our last laundry delivery before we go. Things just feel off – and when compounded with Emily being gone, it's a little confusing for a little girl.
Still, the kids and Matheus enjoyed a beautiful day at the beach – which does feel normal at this point. And we can have gyros at Ailyn's boyfriend's restaurant for dinner and our last days with Matheus – hopefully without dodging Land Rovers, sitting in traffic jams or smelling like ash trays.
