Chicken In The Oven

Yiamas – closed. Nektar – closed. Seahorse – closed. Mostra – closed. The shop that sells cosmetics and creams – open. Stelios – closed (!) Alas – closed, but maybe open later. Bakeries – open. Produce shop – closed. Butcher and fishmonger – open. Supermarket – open. Pantellis – closed. Petrino – open. Liquor store – open. Newsstand and shop – closed. Post office – open. Sagitarius – closed. Travel agencies – open.

I took inventory of our resources and I walked sleepily down the "street" at just after 10 am. 

My goals were simple – get cash and enough groceries for dinner in case no other dinner options were available. The ATM was as hardworking as ever. Tassos the Butcher's shop was bustling as they were taking in inventory – seemingly enough to get through the holidays. Maybe because people will be a lot of meat for Christmas? Or maybe just because deliveries will become scarcer and they're filling the freezer? All the same, Tassos' crew welcomed me back and showed me the packet of my favorite seasoned chicken – as if they had prepared it specifically for me.

The Alpha Beta supermarket – the only real chain business aside from the bank – was busy-ish – or at least had more activity than anywhere else in town. Certainly, it had more fresh produce than I recalled – maybe because without the summer visitors inventory stays larger? I was able to get everything I wanted with ease.

As the day progressed, there were more signs of life. Manolis' organic shop opened and the Rouge cosmetics shop next to him where Ailyn gets her donkey milk hair products. Cars parked in the front of the town square – something never allowed in Summer – as people from other parts of the island popped in and out of Skala for their errands. 

Most different from summer, the sounds of playing children fill the house in the morning since the elementary school next door is in session. 

The weather is cold. The Apple Weather app accurately reported 60 degrees, feels like 49. The ocean breeze brings a chill and the difference between sun and shade is pronounced. I put on a Sherpa fleece sweatshirt with a weatherproof lining. Tragically, I had to trade in my flip flops for actual athletic shoes.

But not everything summer is lost. By midday, Ketchup – one of the three "resident" cats of the front yard returned and had Michelle petting and feeding him. My guess is Ketchup will get the band back together and we may well see Gingos and Pebbles/Patches – the other two "residents" of the yard. A couple of weeks ago when he was working on the cabinetry, Mohammad the contractor texted me a photo of Caramel – a regular, but not resident of the yard – looking for some eats. Now that we're rearmed with Friskies, I have no doubt Caramel will find her way back.

At Sagittarius where I came to lunch and write, George the waiter who I've known for years gently took the menus and told us what there actually was to order – something I appreciated rather than playing the "Do you have this? No I don't" Game I experienced in the Spring of 2022. Tzatziki and oven baked chicken and potatoes weren't the gigante beans and dolmades I really wanted – but they still made a nice and authentic Greek lunch.

"The time of year is the best. It's free – everyone can do what they want. There's room and I don't have to work so hard like Summer," Stefanos who rents me motorscooters told us. 

If what one wants is quiet and freedom, then yes – Patmos at this time of year has a lot to offer. It's simpler and feels more traditional. The sun still shines on a sparkling Aegean and from a photograph taken at 1 pm, you might well not be able to tell it's not Summer. 

If you want community then this time of year also works well. When you melt the population down to its local core, you also see the connectedness. Everyone greets everyone. People laugh in the supermarket and chat on the streets. They have the time and aren't escaping the heat of the day. Sure, they may not all like each other – but they will absolutely greet each other and at worst pretend to like each other like any extended family.

All of that said, I'm tired. Our 6pm ferry left 40 minutes late meaning our 2pm arrival became a 2:40 arrival. Giant Blue Star 2 was far from crowded and it was easy to claim a nice table, chairs and sofa bench where Michelle could stretch out when she got tired. But chair and sofa sleep isn't the same as a bed and after arriving late at night in Athens and then late at night on Patmos, five hours of bed sleep wasn't enough to fully recharge – as nice as the bed here is. 

Immanoula the cleaning lady and caretaker kindly had the bed made, clean towels out, lights on and heaters running. It turns out the heating function on the split air conditioner systems really works – my biggest gnawing fear about showing up in winter. The house was clean, comfortable and inviting – and we were glad to see it. I never appreciated how good the water heater is until last night's shower.

Certainly, the house isn't exactly as I left it. Immanoula put all the extra pillows in my dresser drawers. The towels have been line dried the way a local does it instead of dryer blasted the way at least this American does it.

Still, not every change is a negative. Mohammad finished replacing all the cabinet faces and now all the formerly beige-ish formica cabinetry is wood and the same lulaki (blue accenting) as the rest of my house. I didn't expect to lean into the Greek theme quite so hard, but I love blue and why reinvent the wheel? The new blue cabinetry – Michelle's suggestion – makes the marble counters show and swirling blue kitchen tile pop. It was the last step to really transforming the kitchen.

In many ways, the house here on Patmos feels more like home than the one in Westlake. Some of it is the layout. Some is the fact I own this one outright. No doubt some is that Patmos resonates for me. But also the house reflects me – it's my taste and choices. I've never owned my own house before and been confronted with making a house mine based on my personal taste. Of course that has limits – "my taste" stands on the shoulders of the friends and loved ones whose ideas and suggestions helped me find my footing when I was otherwise scared to even choose furniture.

Without Conlan and Sharon, the living room would be a disaster. Without Michelle, I'd still be struggling with the beige cabinets. Without Laura I never would have gone for blue kitchen and hallway tiles. Without Liz and Alex I might not have tackled the kitchen first – but they were clear the old backsplash tile had to go – immediately. Without Leanne, I might not have done any of it. And the kids and my mom were the on the front lines of choosing the bedroom furniture and mattresses when I was first figuring out how to even get furniture. Barrett and Beth made it clear the refrigerator needed to change walls. So, I suppose it's worth reframing that his house is my taste in part because it reflects and incorporates so many people I love and who matter. 

Most of all, I will always remember Conlan having diagramed the living room to illustrate the ideas he and Sharon had to help me orient it. He had a first layout based on what he and Sharon thought was best – and a second layout based on his expectation that I would want a big sectional sofa, even if that's not his taste. Not only was he right, but he helped me choose the Aegean Blue upholstery. For that, I enjoy the sofa all the more.

So what comes next? I'm not exactly sure.

I have work, yoga and writing to do each day. I got my wheels today, so now I can scooter around the island and see what's what – which is probably best done before the rains expected later in the week. I need to get my cases of kombucha I preordered from Manolis during his limited store hours. I'll finish unpacking and maybe run a load of laundry. Nothing special at all – just settling in.

My expectations of a Patmos winter are exactly what I experienced today at Sagittarius – less menu, more chicken in the oven – with potatoes.

Nonetheless, when you assume, you make an ass out of u and me. Anything could happen. More than likely, everything is happening and I just haven't learned how to see it all yet.