Walking the streets of Bangkok, it's easy to see Thailand's strengthening economy and the wealth accumulating in Bangkok. From the vast number of new buildings rising where old, decrepit ones once were to Maserati and Rolls Royce dealers in the Siam Paragon mall to the value of the Thai Baht itself – roughly 30 to the US Dollar instead of the 44 it was when I lived here in 2001-2002 – the signs of financial success are everywhere.
The Skytrain tracks are longer, serving the areas of the city created by urban sprawl. The once ubiquitous street food vendors have been kicked off main thoroughfares and out of gentrifying neighborhoods. Not a single taxi driver has tried to screw us – they all just activate the meters without request or careful watching. Foreign banks are competing alongside Thai banks, offering consumers new, more advanced banking services. The advent of the Vitamin has turned many of the city's fresh fruit vendors into made-to-order juice stands. And once sparse ice cream is now everywhere in more flavors than anyone can imagine.
Bangkok is steadily changing – in a way most Westerners would paternalistically consider Progress. Of course – like many longtime New Yorkers or even Los Angelenos, it's easy to miss some of the character that disappears in the wake of Progress. Fewer outdoor markets, far less delicious street food, no bootleg software or DVDs in the computer mall, no elephants unexpectedly walking through your neighborhood… some of the most charming parts of Bangkok life gone forever.
Last night Emily and I took time for ourselves, rode the Skytrain, walked parts of the city, found a market, saw a few side streets that still had the great street food we love. And then, we hopped back on the train, went two stops from Bangkok old to Bangkok new and the giant, high-end malls of Siam Square where we had a sushi feast at one of Bangkok's most creative and well reviewed sushi restaurants where unique creations included rolls and pieces with foie gras (which Emily naturally tried and then reordered).
On our last day in Bangkok and Thailand, we did the same as our last day in Chiang Mai – we took it leisurely and spent much of it at the mall. Once we discovered that the Grand Palace entrance fee is pricer than it once was and that visitors are required to wear all black or white to respect the mourning of his late Majesty, we let our original plan drop and decided that a ride on the Skytrain and puttering around the city's amazing malls would be an easy and un-sweaty way to spend a day before getting on a series of long flights.
"I'm so glad we did this!" Sennen told Emily after we got off the Skytrain. He was hesitant to go on a train so high up and afraid the doors might close on him. Once assured and with some coaxing, he went for his first experience on a public transit train and was delighted. As is often the case, Ailyn displayed no fear and went unhesitatingly forward.
After hours of puttering around the Siam Paragon Mall and meeting my friend Jay for lunch at the unbelievable Thai street-food food court there, we headed back to our hotel where we paid an extra $20 for late checkout – giving us claim to our main suite until we leave for the airport at 5pm. This allowed us to pickup our laundry, finish packing bags, give the kids a nap, take showers, write this blog – basically regroup before the journey ahead.
Because tonight, the last and often most painful part of the adventure begins. An 8:50pm flight to Singapore will take 2.5 hours and land us at just past midnight Singapore time. Then another 2:40 minutes to change planes in Singapore before a five-hour run to Seoul with no change of planes, but a stop of 2.5 hours before the final leg to Los Angeles where we arrive at 6:30 am – and continuing what will likely feel like a never-ending day.
But you never know – the kids could sleep well on the plane and if they don't, we plan to give them all the TV and movie time they want. Whatever it takes to cross the Pacific in peace.
At the end of the trip, we feel like we've done many things, had a great time and that it's been a long, worthwhile trip. We even want to come back to Thailand – maybe next year. Moreover, unlike last year's trip to Bali when Emily was ready to head home by the end, no one seems ready to leave this time. The kids are sad to leave Thailand and to part ways with Arielle in Los Angeles. Ailyn invited Arielle to come for a sleep-over party (albeit with Arielle sleeping on the floor of the bathroom) and to her birthday party. Sennen seconded the motion (the birthday party and sleepover – not the bathroom floor as a bed).
As of this post, we are a mellow, slightly melancholy group bracing for the journey and looking forward to a sweet return in the future. Goodbye Thailand, goodbye amazing food, goodbye beach dance parties. Goodbye elephants, boats, songthaews, markets, strange smells, Thai conversations and days without schedules. We'll find you again, though.
One Response
The more difficult it is to get back into the old grind of schedules, work and chores, the more you know the vacation was a success. This one is going to be hard to come back from. But how wonderful that you had a vacation that was everything you could have hope it would be and that has filled each of you with sweet memories.