Not only was the ferry was running about 25 minutes late but it was unclear where it would pull-in. A low-end cruise ship that was small enough to be allowed to dock instead of anchoring off-shore occupied most of the port. A security guard with minimal English gave us insufficient information to figure out where to go – so we explored and eventually found the crowd of "welcomers" – hotel owners/staff, Airbnb hosts, car rental owners, etc who were waiting for their respective customers and guests to arrive. We spotted Stefanos, Nichola's cousin who we used to rent motor scooters from waiting for a guest for his studio hotel and chatted while we waited. This time, we too were "welcomers."
When the Dodekenesos Express, originating in Rhodes and passing through the chain of islands made it to Patmos, it was directed to a less used portion of the port further toward the town square. Because it was a small ferry, the Dodekenesos Express could simply make a quick spin and back up to the available dock space, releasing people, cargo and motorcycles out the back.
The welcomers crowded around as the passengers disembarked and the usual ferry landing chaos ensued – made worse by the fact that the welcomers were not restrained by the gate at the port exit as they usually would be. It took what felt like a long time to spot Conlan and Sharon who with their typical grace and sophistication decided not to be the first people shoving their way off the boat. From there, we reached one another and big hugs ensued.
That was last night at 6:15. Since then, life has been an extra dose of fun. We have been looking forward to Conlan and Sharon's visit all summer – they are the first, and only visitors from home we've had during this long summer abroad and it's always fantastic to have friends around. It's also very fitting that it would be them as Conlan – who I have known since seventh grade and been truly great friends with since 12th – has met up with me (and now us) in numerous far-away destinations over the course of the past 18 years beginning when I lived in Bangkok in 2001-2002. Since then, we've had adventures in Hong Kong, Singapore, Thailand, Malaysia and a few rounds of Bali. The fact that this is our first time hanging out in Europe is almost shocking. But if anyone would come to a difficult-to-access island in Greece, it would be – and is – Conlan.
After getting settled in their Airbnb rental across the Kastelli neighborhood from us, Conlan and Sharon came to our place where they received the tour of the house and roof from an excited Sennen and Ailyn. After looking out at Skala and up to Hora, we adjourned to a 2.5 hour dinner at Ostria – a great mezze and seafood restaurant near the marina – notable as one of "the big three grilled octopus restaurants" in Emily's mind. With discussions ranging from how metallic no-mess markers work to travel to culture to photography to the pain of breastfeeding, we had a fun evening filled with four carafes of white whine (two we ordered, two sent to us by the owner of the local laundry service who we patronize), two bottles of blue label ouzo and more food than we knew what to do with – it was a welcome feast and celebration filled with laughter.
"I was a party animal! We were wild!" Ailyn said this morning.
So was her brother who engaged in a dance competition, split a dessert waffle with Nutella and gelato with Sharon, made pots and numerous other artifacts from modeling clay with Sharon and who sparred with/was tickle tortured by Conlan on the way home. It should be noted that besides being her playful, charming self, Ailyn pushed for us to pay the dinner check and head post-haste to the gelateria, leading everyone through town at about 10:30pm.
It was great to catch up with Conlan and Sharon who were engaged on a trip to Finland earlier this year and who will be getting married next June. They came to Greece from several weeks in Ireland traveling both with Conlan's family and on their own – to both typical and some unusual destinations including the Black Valley. In turn, we helped introduce them to Patmos and some of the finer points of Greek dining such as blue label ouzo, our favorite mezzes and Stelio's gelateria.
By the time we got home, it was midnight. The kids managed to sleep until 8:45 and woke up excited for a day at the beach with Conlan and Sharon. Today has involved walking through Skala, a brief driving tour of the northern part of Patmos, the best pies (cheese spiral, cream and chocolate) from the bakery, relaxing at Agriolivadi Beach and a proper two-hour lunch at the taverna there. Conlan got his first taste of the calm, cool buoyant waters of the Aegean and in general, everyone had a great time.
Tonight, the kids will stay with Matheus while the adults continue the party alone. The day hasn't been eventful – but good company is an event in itself after two months of the five us keeping one another company. As Emily said:
"It's good to have friends!"
