Hunter-Gatherer

Having such a large, comfortable condo has changed the way we operate. Instead staying in for dinner once in awhile, we have eaten at home every night. Not that we've cooked – because who would be insane enough to waste a meal in Thailand cooking for themselves? But the food has come to us each night. Or more exactly, we and sometimes just I, have gone in search of food and schlepped it back.

We're pretty dedicated street food people – because there's not a restaurant in Thailand that's as good as the best of what you'll  find on a street cart. The diversity of Thailand's street food is also unparalleled. Thailand is more than arguably the best eating country in the world and hands-down the best street food country. Given the number of prior blog posts extolling Thai street food including 2018,and 2011's magnum opus I won't review the magic of the Thai food scene – but suffice it to say, it's amazing.

Dinners have been a collection of various items – sometimes based one what everyone wants such as tonight when Sennen and I went to the Paragon Siam food court to gather our dinner – and other times based on the best of what's around, such as last night when I went to a nearby district and worked the street food scene. Street cart vendors tend to have territories they work and every street and soi has its own set of regulars – usually providing an array of options for that block or soi. But the compilations of any given neighborhood can be very different – such as last night when there were khanom ghib (Thai shumai) and luk choob (glutinous rice balls with fillings) rather than the more typical som tam (green papaya salad) and noodle soups. As the hunter-gatherer for my hungry, impatient family waiting for my return, sometimes I just have to play the hand I'm dealt and see what they'll do with khanom ghib (total bomb).

As a result of this approach, Bailey has undergone a serious crash course in Thai cuisine and tried an amazing amount of things in a short period. He has been amazingly open and adventurous too. Bailey now has an idea of which foods pair with sticky rice, and which don't or which noodles she likes and what you can have made without meat – and what you can't.

But the hunter-gatherer approach to dinner has been precipitated by COVID. In normal times, food carts often setup some folding tables and chairs for "dine-in" business. Areas with a strong street-food presence or night markets might have entire dining areas. But during COVID, these are much fewer and farther between. Mostly you can only order sai kong (in a box) or sai toong (in a bag). 

Lunches have usually been out, but have similar content – largely street food, but usually bought at mall food courts. The massive increase in ever-fancier mall food courts is like Thailand's answer to the Singaporean hawker-center phenomenon. Decades ago, Singapore decided to move its street vendors off the street. Only few things could have toppled the government like getting rid of Singapore's cheap, delicious street food. So, Singapore built Hawker Centers – structures with stalls, mini-kitchens and running water – for street food vendors to move into and operate with a higher sanitation standard. Eventually, private versions of the Hawker Center also became popular offering air conditioning and more restaurant-style environments and cleanliness. But the Singaporean adherence to its food hawkers remains strong and there are specific vendors in specific centers that are known far and wide as the best in their field.

Thai malls seem to have recruited some of those street food top chefs to work in their nicely sanitized stalls and sell their food at higher prices. With kids, this mall format has been ideal. We sit in a clean, air conditioned environment with a guaranteed variety of foods that we can quickly gather and bring to the table. Wandering the food court stalls, looking at the well displayed menus with pictures has helped Bailey understand her options and get the lay of the Thai street food landscape.

Today, after four very full, active and tiring days, we decided to make Sunday a "do-nothing day" just staying in to enjoy the condo and swimming pool. Ailyn was particularly tired and has been asking each day to swim. She got her wish today. So lazy were we that we didn't even go out for lunch, but ordered take out from the Italian restaurant downstairs after our attempt to have Pizza Hut delivered failed for lack of a Thai phone number. The kids all played together, did artwork, read, watched movies, and just unwound. Emily worked out, swam and got a massage. Eventually Sennen got antsy and I took him with me to the mall to the supermarket and to pick up dinner from the food court. But that was as active as the day got.

Traveling with children has been a lesson in knowing when to slow down or backup and regroup. When the kids were littler, pacing ourselves was easier. We knew when they needed a nap or that after a certain amount of activity, they couldn't go on. We were ready to have at least half the day in downtime. At ages six and eight, gauging their capacity is a little more challenging. It often seems like they can do more without tiring. But I think sometimes we forget that they are in such a different environment and that the simple act of getting around Bangkok is more effort than it seems, let alone being in it and doing activities. Our first few days were full and each night, Ailyn was spent. On Friday, Sennen was at his worst – with a miraculous turnaround on Saturday. The fatigue and shock-to-the-system of this kind of travel had to be accounted for. In the end, this is vacation, not the Long March of sightseeing.

As for me, I needed rest too. I slept until almost nine today and tonight will go to bed before midnight for the first time this trip. Between odds and ends of work, visits with my friend Jay and writing this blog, I haven't had an early evening yet. Of course, finishing off the night writing, with the Bangkok skyline so amazingly laid out in front of me through the giant glass walls of our penthouse hasn't been so bad. Still, good night, Bangkok. And good night everyone at home.