On Thursday, the North Wind came and changed everything. The stagnant, humid heat that had encompassed the early week and even to midday Thursday was literally blown away and has kept things delightful ever since. In reality, the temperature hasn't changed much – 82 degree highs each day – although the evening temperatures now drop to the mid-to-low 70's when they stayed closer to 79 before. However, everything feels much cooler, more enjoyable and people are altogether happier.
While climate change may be responsible for intensity and frequency, there is nothing new about the weather and the winds here. Greek Mythology included the Anemoi – the minor gods of the four major winds. Boreal, the North Wind was considered the harshest and least forgiving because of his role in winter – but in summer, he was the ice in one's tea, bringing refreshment and maybe a hint of lemon. His opposite, Notus – The South Wind – brought hot air from North and Saharan Africa and was responsible not just for the heat of summer, but the dog days too.
For now, everyone is happy to have Boreal who may create crests on the seas, but air conditions the Aegean – making things breezy and so pleasant that it's hard to justify being inside.
The incredible body of mythology that Ancient Greece produced and which Western Civilization and carefully preserved since gives us more information on what these lands were like thousands of years ago – and the people who lived in them – than most places on Earth. Much like visiting Israel where the physical geography and the Torah or Bible intersect, Greece environment and its mythology make perfect sense together still.
In school, learning Greek Mythology, no one ever explained that in most cases, you can literally see one island from the next – that ships navigate their way between islands more than they find themselves on the open seas. Odysseus would scarcely have been without a cell tower today and could have shorted his journey immensely with the proper use of texts and Google Maps. But how he was lured from place to place and faced challenges on different islands or straits, makes all the sense in the world.
When I ride to Petra for an afternoon at my favorite beach, I see Lipsi in the background, across the water. If I enjoy an afternoon at Lampi, I see Ikaria (the place of the myth of Icarus and more recently known for its inhabitants' longevity) and Fourni (famed for its lobster). Little Patmos far out in the Aegean is hardly alone.
The only real differences between now and then are science, technology and the disenchantment of the world (which go hand and hand). Humans no longer understand the world to be controlled by people and creatures of magical ability, sea monsters lurking around every turn. At least mostly we don't. I think we can all agree the West Wind doesn't get jealous of the male lovers of the gods and kill them by pulling a flying discus off-course, though it might be responsible for spreading a wild fire or two.
I've heard a comedian and a number of smart people I know comment on how Greece had a golden age making huge contributions to human knowledge and science a long time ago and then decided to sit things out and chill ever since. While funny on its face value, it ignores something that perhaps is best appreciated by a Jew: one remarkable accomplishment of the Greek people is simply remaining Greek. In my opinion, this gets tremendously overlooked.
Greece was conquered by Rome in 146 BC after which it was ruled for 600 years by Rome, followed by the Byzantine Empire, then invaded by barbarians, then divided up and annexed by other rising powers such the Holy See, Venice and France – after which it was mostly taken by the Ottoman Empire until the 19th Century when a combination of local rebellions and British interference began the constellation of events leading to the Kingdom of Greece and ultimately today's Hellenic Republic. Greece as anything resembling a political entity had been missing for almost 1000 years. As you might imagine, few of its rulers invested heavily in Greece and its inhabitants were usually second class citizens in their own country. Not a recipe for thriving scholarship and global contributions.
Throughout all of this, the definition of a Greek ethnicity, culture and language remained. For Jews who had a much larger diaspora, it would be easy to say, "Well, they still had their land and could stay together…" True – that had to help. But how many countries lost their languages in a generation or two under empire? How many Celts, Gauls or Huns do you meet still speaking their original languages with their cultures intact? So strong was the Greek culture that even in Istanbul until the 1950's when horrible race riots led to Greek ethnics being chased out of Turkey, Greeks formed an important and economically vibrant part of Ottoman and Turkish society while still retaining their distinct identity.
One shop owner here on Patmos once told me she respects Romanians because like Greeks – they suffered through hundreds of years of Ottoman occupation and atrocities but still retained their religion, language and culture. They're kindred spirits to the Greeks. Fair enough.
Right now, we're on the cusp of seasons here on Patmos – Greek Season vs French, German and Italian Season. Until now – and particularly right now – the majority of tourists staying on Patmos are Greek. Athenians take their summer vacations too and with a country like this, who needs an international destination? They can just take the ferry – sometimes bringing their cars and motorcycles that don't really fit with the island. But that's another story.
I like Greek tourists because other than sometimes bringing cars that don't fit the island's roads, they go with the flow. Which makes sense because they are culturally compatible. Long lazy days at the beaches, long lazy dinners at night. The people who come to Patmos know it's not a party island and they are here to the elegantly simple version of the good life – fresh seafood, carafes of wine with dinner, lounge chairs at the beach, casual shopping, dressing up and strolling town at night, giving their kids room to play. Always to my amazement they can sit at a beachside cafe table ordering nothing by coffee and soft drinks for hours – which is a culturally normal thing to do. No matter how hard I try, I'm eventually overcome by the nagging feeling that I'm taking up prime real estate and should really allow the table to turn over for the benefit of the kind people at the establishment. But I think that's just me.
Greek tourists also keep one ancient tradition alive – the use of flowy linens. I am constantly in awe of how many people have so much linen in their wardrobes. A linen men's shirt costs upwards of 100 euros – and often much more. Dresses and coverups can cost more than that. But linen flows through the streets in such style and colors it can hardly be believed. Moreover, they can't be wearing all this linen in daily life. Who keeps such a large, expensive vacation wardrobe? I suppose Greeks do….
August is the month when so many Europeans vacations that in many cases, businesses and government offices close. Paris' local population dwindles and it can be impossible to get business done there in August. Germany leaves behind a skeleton crew too. I've already seen drips and drops of French, Norwegians, British and Italians present. I've noticed a couple of Swiss and Austrian license plates parked in the public lots. They are the harbingers of their brethren and sistren.
For Patmians, this is crunch time. The largest amount of money they can make all year flows for the next 30 days.
"This isn't like Rhodes where the tourism season tapers off – lessens into October or November even," Prokopis said. "Here, it just falls off after August. Everyone has to focus on making their money in July and August."
In my personal experience, that isn't completely true. Emily and my first two sojourns on Patmos were in September and there were definitely people here, life going on. But from a local business owner's perspective, it's just a fraction of the activity. In fact, it's an interesting phenomenon: locals seem to like May, June, September and October a lot. Many have told me how September is the best month (because it is). They appreciate it on a personal life quality basis. But the money – the stuff that carries them through the year, allowing them to close shop for the winter and take it easy – it happens now.
Maybe some things have changed. The Ancient Greeks didn't have tourism or an economy that allowed people to work hard for a few short months. If anything, they would be harvesting in September and October and maybe getting some break during the depth of winter. However, by March, it would be back to work tilling, planting and fishing. Even 30-40 years ago it was probably more like that here on Patmos – before the days of Internet, luxurious ferries, cruise ships and Airbnb.
Melanie, the Dutch lady who cleaned my Airbnb apartment when I stayed here last year used to criticize how dependent Patmians have become reliant on tourism – talking about how devastating COVID was and how they are not willing to work the rest of the year. It's hard to let go of the taste of the fat of the land. It's also understandable how the people of a place so economically devastated by the end of World War 2 that many emigrated to countries with opportunity would find delight in their once worthless land becoming prime real estate and all the wealth that came with it. The once cheap, floundering taverna is the hottest restaurant in town commanding top prices for fresh seafood with a view of the water. The old house in disrepair can be fixed up and rented out for 300 euros a night – or more. That grazing land over the beach cove can now hosts 1.3 million euro luxury house.
How can one resist that? Passive income – it's the American and apparently Patmian dream.
Sure, it wouldn't hurt for Patmians to have a backup plan for when disaster strikes: COVID, an earthquake, a fire or an extended visit from Notus in the peak of summer. But what Melanie overlooks is how surprisingly resilient Greeks have always been. And besides, no one – not even people on a small island – is really alone. The neighboring island is always within sight, just past the lurking sea monsters.
