"When bulls fight, it's the little animals who get hurt – and we are the little animals!" my first taxi driver said to me. "This was in Ukraine is about energy and America, Mr Biden – he wants to make more money by fighting with the Russia about energy and raising the price of American oil. America did this in Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan – all these wars are really about energy."
But he was equally critical of the Greek government, the EU for putting a stranglehold on the Greek economy, the EU being a puppet mechanism of Germany and global warming.
"It's cold today – too cold for this time of year. They have disturbed the environment."
Fair point when you're looking at snow on the mountains around Athens in late march.
My second taxi driver, Harry who was born in Australia and whose mom is Greek-Australian spoke impeccable English, but despite being an incredibly nice guy had some interesting perspectives to offer, "Russia is putting out lots of propaganda online, and I think some it is true. Like there are far-right Nazis taking over the Ukraine government – five of them who are very powerful."
"But Zelenski isn't a Nazi," I responded.
"No, Zelenski is a good guy, a very good guy – but he was put there by the Nazis because he's a good guy and good face for the country and he doesn't always have the choice about what he does."
"But Zelenski is Jewish. So why would he be selected by Nazis?"
"Probably to hide the fact that there are Nazis."
Okay…. we moved on and found more agreement on the fact that Greece's economy could be in a better place and that corruption in Greek politics have hampered the diversification and capital investment in Greece's development. He also laughed hysterically when I explained that I brought decaf coffee with me (because there are no decaf grounds on Patmos – they just look at you strangely if you ask).
Yuval Noah Harari, author of Sapiens, 21 Questions for the 21st Century and Homo Deus believes that one of the reasons humans became the dominant species on the planet is our ability to tell stories. We weave narratives, exchange them and using them can in many cases create mass cooperation (another ability that sets us apart from our next closest cousins – chimpanzees and bonobos who can cooperate in groups of no more than 150, while we can literally cooperate in the billions (think the international financial system, language, major corporations that manage resources across the globe, nation-states, etc).
Stories, both accurate and not, govern our world. One way Ukraine and Russia fight is through the attempt to spread their stories. History itself is a literal series of stories – usually written my winners of wars and the most powerful segments of societies. This is why it can be revised. My parents' generation played Cowboys and Indians growing up which was not only acceptable, but obviously everyone wanted to be a Cowboy because they were the good guys who should win. Today it's impossible to imagine children playing Cowboys and Indians and anyone with a conscience can understand that the story behind that game celebrates genocide and exploitation which most most of us have come to discourage.
Taxi drivers are some of my favorite people to talk to in any country. They often have great information and can be a window into the life of working class citizens. In Singapore, the older taxi drivers are treasures because some of them have been working since Singapore became a country and they actually own their own taxis. Many of them are actually upper-middle class because they were empowered to own their vehicles and could buy additional ones once upon a time. They know history, economics and can tell the on-the-ground story of Singapore's founding and development in ways you can't get from a book.
From what I've heard from taxi drivers – and so many Greek people I've met over the past 12 years – is that the Greek story seems to be one of resignation. Greece's best days are behind it and while there might be some wistful desire for a better future, there's a lack of belief that it will ever materialize. And from that there also seems to be a freedom – the freedom to not care so much. Live the best life you can without working too hard. Enjoy the beauty of the sun-kissed lands and seas in which you live. Don't worry so much about being a great nation – you can get by well enough in second tier and you get to stay out of wars and geopolitics. While once there was greatness – as can be seen from ancient ruins and archaeological sites – now there is coffee, ouzo, cigarettes, seafood and beaches. Do we really need to be Germany or America?
Is it a powerful truth or a story that makes things acceptable? And for Greece's failure to economically develop, there is no shortage of options to place blame from the EU in general to Germany which really puppets the EU to America to corrupt politicians to COVID and the dip in tourism. Is any of it true? Is it all true? Perhaps to some degree all of it is true. But what's missing is the Greek citizen's desire to hold its government accountable and make change.
Texting with one friend last night, it was clear the Acropolis would be where he would go on a day in Athens. I realized that it's really where anyone visiting would go – it's THE attraction along with its incredible museum at the foot of the hill it stands on. So naturally, that's where I ended up along with every other tourist in Athens. What is it that makes these ruins so attractive? It's hard to know if a Chinese tourist's answer would be similar to mine or a German one for that matter. Because in the end, even the Acropolis is the story around it. Is it the story of human perseverance – the amazement that people built things so advanced so long ago – symbols of human ingenuity and enlightenment that endures? Or is the story of when Greece was a force in the world and a culture that was once a beacon – but no more? Or is it the story of defeat? That a once-great civilization was taken down by another once-great civilization and that a series of wars and conquests eventually erase it – a fate we all fear? When we look at the Acropolis are we just staring off the cliff of history – worrying we might be staring in the mirror? Or to someone from Asia or Africa, is it the curious story of a very foreign Western Civilization – an opportunity to learn about a very different culture and set of norms? Or yet still, is it just a landmark to check off in their list of places in front of which they want photos – in much the same way as Americans go to see the Great Wall but often know nothing – and perhaps care nothing – about the history around it?
"The Story" of anything is so hard to know because there are competing stories and most stories are malleable, adjustable – and we often without realizing change the stories we tell to support the views and necessities we now face. This is part of what makes our politics and societal discourse so scary – facts are becoming scarce and instead everyone wades through narratives which seem murkier and faster changing than ever.
But it's also the very challenge I'm working on. When I sort through all the events, facts, stories, feelings – what is the Overstory?
There's a great scene in the first episode of the third season of Six Feet Under where Nate suffers a stroke and his fate is unclear. In front of what we can assume to be his soul are numerous possible futures ranging from him in a coffin to recovering from massive brain injury to being married with children to his girlfriend Brenda, to being with his former roommate/occasional lover Lisa and their baby – and glimpses several other fractured options. Nate seemingly gets to choose among all the possible futures but in a rushed way – unable to necessarily comprehend or consider any of them. Perhaps some of them hang in the balance of the surgery he's undergoing at the time of the vision.
I feel like that's me right now. Some choice, some factors beyond my control and an array of fractured glimpses of possible futures. Is it as simple as reaching out for the "right" future? How do I know what the right future is? Is there enough time and information to understand the choice? Is it even my choice? (I suspect at least some of it is) Where do all the many paths lead? In other words, what will my story be? What – to the degree I can affect it – should my story be? And what will everyone else's story be as a result of mine? What story will it create for my children and their children? What will the story be for Emily? For my friends and my community? What ripple will I create that will impact all the narratives? And is there an Overstory – one greater story we can all recognize that comes from it?
Perhaps this is all esoteric BS or just anxious overthinking. Perhaps trying to curate The Story – or any story is a fruitless endeavor. Maybe even buying into stories is the real problem. But, if Harari's story is right – we are storytelling animals. Maybe Zelinski is the Jewish puppet of a rising Nazi regime or maybe he is the hero in a battle between freedom and naked aggression. Maybe Germany is using monetary policy to keep Greece from getting ahead or maybe Greece doesn't get ahead because it makes myriad choices that don't work for it. Maybe I should be saving my marriage and family as I know it because love includes patience and fortitude, or maybe I should be letting go because sometimes you have to know when to stop. The Story remains unclear and has yet to be told (except the Zelinski part – he's not a Jew working for Nazis).
