Mr Montefiore lived - and died – in our apartment building in Cannes (The Montefiore). When we heard noises coming from the lower floors, but didn't see anyone else staying or living in the building, it made sense that Mr. Montefiore – who had choked to death on a crepe – was responsible. Sometimes Mr. Montefiore would push me in the elevator and I would fall onto the kids, squishing them.
To our horror, Mr. Montefiore followed us to Paris where he sometimes bats me – and therefore the kids – around in the very small elevator in our building here. To ensure Mr. Montefiore would leave us alone, the kids began sending the elevator to another floor after we were done with it. On occasion, we've seen glitches in the metro turnstiles - which we believe may also be Mr. Montefiore's work, though we can't be sure.
On the news kiosks around Paris is an ad for a magazine featuring a story on the history of Jerusalem – and it cites Simon Sebag Montefiore, author of one of the best histories of the Holy City. Sometimes, when Mr. Montefiore acts out, Sennen yells "Sebag!" knowing full well that the author is alive and well and the crepe choked Montefiore is not. But it amuses him.
The question now is whether or not Mr. Montefiore will try following us to America. My hope is not. But you never know….
In France, it's not uncommon that people who have passed away are very much part of everyday life. France celebrates its long, rich history and culture – and goes to efforts to show how certain historical figures have shaped society in many cases hundreds of years after their times. This is particularly true of Louis XIV – The Sun King – who's 72 year-reign (63 of which he ruled directly – not under regency) led to the centralization of power in France, expansion of territory, dramatic increase in national wealth, blossoming of arts and literature, and even royal support for advancement in medicine.
Although his grandson, Louis XV and great -grandson Louis XIV also reigned from Versailles, it's Louis XIV who can be found in every detail. After all, the very idea of turning Louis XIII's hunting lodge into the world's largest and most splendid palace was completely Louis' and he was personally involved in every stage of its development.
On our visit to the Palace today, it didn't take long for Sennen to get the idea that Versailles was Louis XIV's.
"Why all the paintings and sculptures of him? Why did he make everything about him?" Sennen asked.
The quick and easy answer would be to say Louis was a narcissist. He may have been, but I paused and instead offered, "Do you know what a personal brand is?" Sennen did. "It's possible Louis XIV invented the personal brand and if he didn't – he certainly understood its power and how to create one and to use it."
Indeed, Versailles itself and the art, literature and architecture nurtured at court were all a part of a larger attempt to push France to the forefront of the global stage. Unlike most of his predecessors, Louis understood that it took not just France's prowess on the battlefield to earn the respect of the world, but its ability to dominate the cultural landscape, diplomacy and finance. The image of the grandeur and persona of the king himself could give personage to France. And it did.
Clever systems thinker that he was, the Sun King also used Versailles itself as a means to consolidate and centralize power to the crown by putting his nobles in a guilded cage. For a noble to be anyone in France, he or she needed to be present at the Court of Versailles and to be at Versailles meant following endless rules of etiquette and carefully developed daily routines that kept the aristocracy literally dancing to the king's tune. Moreover, if everyone with power was at Versailles where they were both guests and dependents of the king – then all the power in the country was literally under the sovereign's command in his palace. It was an ingenious solution that employed psychology and social engineering rather than force of will.
To my surprise, both kids were excited about thee audioguides and employed them frequently – learning about the various rooms and salons and the history of the court at Versailles. As per usual, Ailyn cared most about the art, decor and appointments – while Sennen wanted to understand everything about the man who built and ran Versailles as well as how the story continued to the next two kings. Sennen also needed to stop the show when we got to the Coronation room where portraits showed the coronation of Napoleon – who despite not living at Versailles, still went to the Coronation Room to bestow upon himself the legitimacy of the French crown.
The place where the kids met was at the end. By the time we finished the tour of all of the permissible parts of Versailles' interior, both were exhausted and after a brief lunch, both found the gardens to be the most splendid of all.
At a bench overlooking a fountain, Sennen and Ailyn shared their versions of what would happen if they owned and lived at Versailles – who they would have live with them and in what housing, how they would run things, what their own lives at Versailles would be like. I remember playing the same game in my head after visiting Versailles at almost 16. Isn't that what the palace is designed to do – to instill envy as your imagination is overwhelmed?
Ailyn started the morning not wanting to get up. She was content to skip Versailles rather than wake up early. I pushed her – telling her she would not only love it, but regret not seeing it. By the end of the day, she admitted that I wasn't wrong. She also expressed that the Louvre was a museum that was in a palace and Versailles was a palace that had some art (which she did not find nearly as impressive or inspiring as what she saw at the Louvre).
Over dinner, both kids said that they didn't want to leave France. Ailyn wants all her loved ones – and her bed and house – to come to France so she can stay here and not compromise anything. She said we should stay – at least a little more. I asked her what we would do tomorrow if we stayed. We would return to the Louvre, go to the top of the Arc d'Triomphe and spend more time on the Rue Cler. Sennen liked all of that, but seemed to be more happy to return to Cannes and set up shop.
It's hard to end a trip like this. I now savor the time with my kids in a new way now that I have them only half as much. These uninterrupted streaks are the best. The fact that we get to see the world together is even more special. I have seen the kids absorb and seek out more than on any prior trip. At eight and ten, they have their own curiosities and desires – and I love feeding them. Whatever they can take from France – or anywhere we go – I want them to have it. There is so much available and they are starting not to just intake that which they are exposed to – but to put pieces together, want to explore threads and uncover meanings and possibilities. I'm thrilled to watch it and to be part of it.
Just as wonderfully, with all the casual time together, both kids have shared more of their worlds with me. I am better attuned to their school and social lives – not by asking or trying to get a report on the day – but because they gradually share. I have more a sense of the landscape of their interiors and who in their lives represents which messages, challenges and ideas. I'm very fortunate to be given that access.
Now for the hardest part: leaving. We wake up at 5:30 am, take an Uber to Charles de Gaulle at 6:30 and our flight to Zurich at 9:30. Then from Zurich to Los Angeles on Swiss. Will it be luxurious? No. Swiss isn't Singapore Airlines. It will be clean, efficient, pleasant and safe. Good enough for me.
And what of poor Mr. Montefiore? I imagine he will head back to Cannes and find himself another nice family to haunt. He should take a page from Louis XIV and put some work into his brand.
